Another tip, if you want your toy to have a smooth surface before applying paint, you have to wash the toy , literally with laundry soap and tap water. Just like washing porcelain or plastic dining plates but of course do not use scouring pad . Just make sure that before you wash them with soap and water to remove the screws on the joints . And make let them dry .
^ Yup. I use Bosny/RJ London gray automotive primer (and flat black for basecoating) on most of my customs.
@solidus - You don't really have to remove the screws/metal parts when you wash the figures. They don't rust even if you leave them in the water for days. I even wash LC figures with their electronic parts - just make sure to remove the batteries beforehand and allow a few weeks of drying time before putting them back in.
One more thing, what's the best clear coat for ROTF/TFTM customs? should I get the Dull/Flat or Glossy one? I'm looking at buying the Bosny brand, any more suggestions?
@bembolbee: there are a lot of schools (of thought) for painting figs, I don't want to confuse you , but I wanna share mine.
1. I use only paints meant for models aka hobby paints (eaxamples are tamiya, gunze sangyo, gaianotes, citadel etc.) as industrial paints like pylox, bosny, rj etc. might be too harsh for plastics used on these figures, and they don't give a finish as satisfying as what you get with hobby paints.
2. I swear by lacquer paints specifically mr. color paints by gunze sangyo and g- color series by gaianotes, these give the best quality finish IMO and are really sturdy vs scratches and knicks(vs acrylics) and dries well and fast (vs enamels). Sometimes even no primer is needed as lacquer bonds with th top layer of your plastic making a very sturdy coat.
3. I personally prefer using airbrush and handbrushing vs spray painting, as IMO teh atomization of spray paints are just to large for such small articles (especially industrial spray types). If you must go spray paint, use hobby grade sprays like tamiya or gunze. it might cost a bit more, but the finish looks a million times better!
4. Always wash with warm soapy water before painting. This is to remove mold grease from the parts, enabling the paint to cover your figure easier.
5. Sand off parts that have frequent contact against each other, this will help paint get more "grip" on the surface and prevent scratching and chipping as compared to just sprying with primer or a flat coat.
Thanks for the very detailed tip bro. I'm a fan of your work btw.
Yeah, I'm torn between these options, I guess the best way to go would be paints specially made for this hobby. So, are there available clear coats under the Tamiya, Citadel brands? Should I go for spray coats or hand painted coats?
IMO, the best (and most economical) clear coat for TFs is Future Floor Polish (aka Pledge Wipe n' Shine in the Philippines). It produces a very high gloss finish that is good for car TFs (which are supposed to be shiny). You can find out more here.
I haven't used Tamiya or the other hobby branded clear coats. While I'm sure that they also produce a good result, they are also WAY too expensive IMO. You can buy a huge bottle of Future for around P150? It should last you dozens of customs.
If you need a matte clear (like for tanks, military vehicles, etc.), then Bosny/RJ London should be okay to use. Just be sure to spray it in multiple thin (very thin) coats.
wow. replies from 2 of my most respected customizers, how can I go wrong?
Thanks guys.
Hi Bro,
I use Tamiya clear spray (both glossy and flat) They're great but you would need to be careful as it can mess up your work. Somehow, if you spray too much, the glossy clear coat eats up/melts the original paint. While if you spray the flat one wrongly, your custom may end up with a whitish coat instead of a clear flat coat. Best is to practice, practice and practice. Especially if you're using spray cans.
wow. replies from 2 of my most respected customizers, how can I go wrong?
Thanks guys.
Hi Bro,
I use Tamiya clear spray (both glossy and flat) They're great but you would need to be careful as it can mess up your work. Somehow, if you spray too much, the glossy clear coat eats up/melts the original paint. While if you spray the flat one wrongly, your custom may end up with a whitish coat instead of a clear flat coat. Best is to practice, practice and practice. Especially if you're using spray cans.
Thanks bro.
Yeah, I've noticed that white cloudy build up when I used the clear coat spray , good thing it was a trial run.
You have very neat customs too bro, I should see the rest of your work.
I'm really learning a lot from you guys. Super thanks!